If you’re at a lose end on a Saturday afternoon, the weather’s lousy and you have a few hours to spare before an evening out in town,  head for the neighbourhood bistro and wine shop Soif in Battersea for one of their regular bi monthly Six Sips Saturdays! Soif is conveniently located about 10 minutes walk from Clapham Junction station.

Of course I should have qualified this by asking if you like wine and cheese although I’m guessing if you’re a follower of this Blog then that’s already implied and understood.

These events are brilliant! The one we attended focused on 6 cheeses from the Vendée area on the French mid west Atlantic coast and cheeses specifically by Fromagerie Beillevaire. These unique and artisan cheeses had inspirational pairings with wines from Soif’s wine list which were in the main clean wines, with geographical coterminosity. At a bargain £20 per head it was a really great way of passing a few hours and increasing our gastronomic knowledge.

We were also joined by Amelié Perraudea from Fromagerie Beillevaire to take us through the tasting notes for each of the cheeses.

It’s no surprise then that these guys are singularly passionate about the provenance and quality of their product. They pride themselves on making not only their own cheeses but also butter (more on this later), in their diary in Machecoul, in the West of France.

Their secret is that they work with just 12 local farmers, collecting the milk individually from each farm and never mixing them! When the milk reaches the diary it’s so fresh and travelled such a short distance that it’s still warm, so there’s no need to reheat it to make the cheese. This creates the optimal conditions in which to make cheese.

And so to the Cheese and Wine Pairings….

Cheese: Cabri d’Ici- Goat’s paired with Wine: 2013 Fief Vendeens Brem “Les Clous” Thierry Michon

Cheeses Clockwise: 1. Cabri D’Ici, 2. Valency, 3. Machecoulais, 4. Rocher Nantais, 5. Brun de Noix, 6. Blue d’ Auvergne

Although originally from Poitou, this is now made in the Vendée, where the goats graze on the rich green pastures of reclaimed land. Matured for 4 weeks it has a glossy white meltingly soft texture and  a thin blue grey rind. Unpasteurised this cheese has a fresh and tangy taste.

2013 Fief Vendeens Brem “Les Clous” Thierry Michon

The pairing would be equally at home as an aperitif or with shellfish but worked equally well with the goat’s cheese. A blend of 60% Chenin blanc, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Groslot gris. Grown bio dynamically since 1995 with much of the viticulture done using traditional methods e.g. under the plough. A clear light straw colour with a fruity nose with hints of pear and quince. Crisp and with a good balance of minerality and acidity.

Further info on this second generation producer at: Domaine St Nicholas

Cheese: Valencay- Goat’s paired with Wine: 2013 Touraine “La Tenière” Puzelat-Bonhomme

This cheese has had its own AOC since 1998! It comes from the village of the same name in Indre a region synonymous with the production of quality goat’s cheese. Made from unpasteurised milk , its moulded by hand into a striking pyramid shape. Its charcoal dust coating turns grey/blue as it matures under humid conditions in a ventilated room. Matured for 4/5 weeks it has a fresh tangy flavour that becomes nuttier as the cheese matures.

2013 Touraine “La Tesniere” , Puzelat-Bonhomme

The wine pairing here is another real gem. Something that the wine buyer at Soif/Terroir is great at! This one from a really small production grown on a terroir of clay and flint.  A third of the grapes for this wine remarkably come from 110 year old vines with the balance coming from the younger 40 year old vines!! The grape varietal is also unusual, Romoratin, is a grape variety that is a distance relative of both Chardonnay and Aligoté. Tangy and zesty on the palette as well as refreshing and with good balance of acidity and minerality, in style it reminded me of the silex (flinty) minerality found in some of the best wines of Pouilly-Fumé. This can be best characterised as like licking a wet stone!

Cheese: Machecoulais – Cow’s paired with Wine: 2013 VdF “Les Copins d’Aboard” Domaine Sablonettes

This cheese was the first creation from Beillevaire in 1998. Made from fresh unpasteurised cow’s milk, it is matured for 4-6 weeks developing a creamy velvety rind in the process. Deceptively having the texture of a goat’s cheese with flavours that are fresh and smooth, almost savoury and with light citrus notes.

2013 VdF “Les Copins d’Abroad” Domaine Sablonettes

This pairing was another usual grape varietal. A Grolleau , grown bio-dynamicaly. Appearance  is a cloudy violet/red in the glass, a nose that is quite animal-like and rustic with a taste of layers of cherry & plum. The flavours are enhanced by a teaser minerality & smooth acidity. This is a complex and vibrant red & once tasted it will never be forgotten! Its the perfect partner to this creamy cheese!

Cheese: Rocher Nantais – Cow’s paired with Wine: 2014 VdF Touraine “Sans Tralala”, François Plouzeau. 

The Rocher Nantais is a creation born out of Beillevaire’s own recipe. It’s very much their take on a Vendée institution , the Curé Nantais, it is made from unpasteurised milk collected from nearby farms. Using only milk of the highest quality, once moulded it is brine washed which yields a thin pale orange rind as the cheese matures. The ivory cheese beneath is meltingly soft and buttery with milky and fruity notes and a subtle hint of hazelnut.

Paired with a 100% Gamay Touraine. Colour is dark mahogany red with notes of strawberries and black pepper on the nose . Minerality and freshness are superb. on the palate almost a taste of stewed plums in red wine. Another winning combination. I got so carried away with this one that I forget to take a photo of the bottle!

Cheese: Brun de Noix – Cow’s paired with Wine: 2014 St. Nicholas de Bourgeuil “Hurluberlu”, Sebastien David.

Originally produced in monasteries, Beillevaire is keeping this tradition alive by producing at their diary in Machecoul. Made from unpasteurised milk, it is regularly brushed with a walnut liquor and kept in a moist cave for up to 2 months. It has  the perfect balance between the fresh milky taste of the cheese  and the nutty notes of the rind.

2014 St. Nicholas de Bourgeuil “Hurlublu”, Sebastien David

The next pairing is from Sebastien David a 15th generation winemaker who works to a clean wine principle with Ecocert Certification and to biodynamic standards. He ferments with wild yeasts and employs carbonic maceration for 25 days. He then follows this with a light pressing to preserve the fruit’s characteristics. The result a classic 100% Cabernet Franc full of red cherry and cranberry flavours that excite the palate.

Cheese: Blue d’Auvergne – Cow’s paired with Wine: 2009 VdF “Isidore”, Didier Chaffardon.

Made from unpasteurised cow’s milk and with its maturation in close proximity to penicllium the source of its blue veins. It matures for at least 4 weeks during which time it develops a thin light brown rind. Yielding a mushroom like aroma but with  a moist meltingly soft texture , it has  a full flavour as you’d expect from a blue cheese but one that is not too overtly savoury so you taste the sharpness of the blue.

2009 VdF “Isidore”, Didier Chaffardon

A passionate and biodynamic winemaker Didier Chaffardon produces this semi sweet wine from 100% Chenin Blanc. A mid gold colour in appearance the wine has a nose of plump soaked sultanas. A late harvest wine which is both dry and yet full of honeyed sweetness, the perfect final pairing with the Blue d’Auvergne.

These events are incredibly informal with you sat in groups of 4-6 of like minded individuals and so there is an added pleasure in discussing the merits of the pairings with fellow “foodies”.

I also need to mention the Beillevaire butter!

Beillevaire Salted Butter

OMG!  Made again from unpasteurised mile and pressed into these beautiful moulds. salted or sweet and with a range of flavoured butters from paprika to peppers and even seaweed!

I’ll definitely be keeping an eye open for more of these events at Soif and be back in SW11 before too long!

If you are a  cheeseaholic and want to sample Beillevaire cheese and butter for yourself they opened their first UK shop in 2010 in Knightsbridge at:

Beillevaire
7 Montpelier Street
London
SW7 1EX

Tel: 0207 584 1231

Being away on business on a Monday night is often a chore, not least because many restaurants either close on a Monday, have no atmosphere or give the Executive chef the night off. This usually adds up to disappointment and sends me heading for staple go to safe bets.

Last Monday night was quite a pleasant surprise and an extraordinary contrast to expectations in that fine northern powerhouse that is Leeds. I’ve spent quite a lot of time up there over the years and would definitely say in my book Leeds over Manchester everytime.

I was staying at the Marriott and wanted somewhere within walking distance so consulted the ever faithful via Michelin guide in search of inspiration. I do believe that this is a more reliable yardstick than the populist votes of Tripadvisor which work well with hotels but can often be distorted by volume traffic rather than quality when it comes to restaurants.

Careful analysis lead me to Crafthouse restaurant in the Trinity Centre. A handy 5 minute walk from the hotel but not somewhere you would find easily being on the top floor of this huge shopping centre! This slightly unorthodox location gives rise to a stunning rooftop location with panoramic views over the city. From the moment you arrive, there is a sense of style and elegance from the minimalist reception and cloakroom area to the stylish bar with open kitchen.

I elected to dine early at 6:30pm having had an early start and wanting to enjoy the experience. I was pretty much the first diner and thought that I might well have the restaurant to myself. However, within 30 minutes it started to fill up and was over half full with a buzzing atmosphere. Friday’s and Saturdays they do over 200 covers in this 144 seat restaurant so do book early to avoid disappointment.

I was drawn also by the lure of their tasting menu with matched wines. Kornel, one of the two waiters looking after me had a generous knowledge of wine and took interest in my particular favourite styles. He then gave a synopsis of the tasting menu, after which I decided to go off piste and create my own. I have to say , he and his colleague Sarah, a charming girl with a beguiling Geordie brogue could not have been more accommodating. Great service always enhances a dining experience.

They helped me navigate the  a la carte  and refine my choices and also accommodated my request for a half portion of the English cheeses to follow my main course. And so to the food…..

I had real trouble picking the starter it was a close run thing between the crab and the smoked venison terrine. In the end the crab won it!

Starter: East Coast Crab, yuzu, avocado purée, radish, keta salmon caviar, ginger biscuit thins.

The coarse texture of the crab contrasted with the smooth avocado purée, whilst the richness of the crab was offset by the hint of citrus from the yuzu.

To partner the crab, Kornel my waiter, suggested a Cote du Rhone from D&Ds own vineyards. This wine is the creation of D&D’s own sommeliers in conjunction with Christian Voeux, head winemaker at the legendary Chateauneuf du Pape producer, Chateau La Nerthe. It’s a heady mix of fat flavours, with stone fruit and enough acidity to balance out the richness of the crab. A blend of 40% Rousanne, 30% Grenache Blanc and 30% Viognier. The name of the blend “Les Trois Bises” translates as “The Three Kisses” and takes its inspiration from the local custom to greet with three kisses instead of two and the trio of local grapes. Cotes du Rhone Les Bises 2014 White

Next up was surprise number one of the evening. Although the smoked venison and partridge terrine hadn’t actually made it onto the main menu, it was a sub that evening for the Goose terrine, the chef wanted to ease my angst of choice of starters by offering me a complimentary one! I was overwhelmed! Then I tasted my first mouthful and it truly blew me away!

Complimentary Starter: Smoked game terrine of venison and partridge, with a truffle brioche crouton, pickled chanterelle mushrooms,burnt butter powder, and Asian artichoke.

Here two completely different meats fight a duel of rich complexity over light and delicate subtlety and it’s sublime. The deep smokiness of the venison contrasting with the lighter flavours of the partridge. There’s also a beautiful and delicate balance of texture and flavour. For example the radish like crunch of the Asian artichoke and the soft and chewy texture of the pickled Chanterelles.

The wine partner for this was another D&D sommeliers/Christian Voeux collaboration. This wine is titled” Les Gamins” which translates as ” The Kids” and is indicative of how the team feel about the project , like kids in a sweet shop! This is a blend of 60% Grenache Noir, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Les Gamins, Cotes du Rhone 2014. This wine was young, full of blackcurrants, vanilla and aniseed.

Main Course: Glenfalloch Venison Loin wrapped in pancetta, spinach purée, lemon and parsley crumb, black salsify sticks, potato deep fried with almonds garnished with cacao nibs

 
The venison perfectly pink and succulent with a hint of added richness from the pancetta, delivering and accentuating its sweet earthiness. The dish was further enhanced by the sweetness of spinach purée and the texture and crunch of the almond encrusted deep fried infused fondant potato. Delicious! 

I continued with a further glass of “Les Gamins” which also worked extremely well with this dish. 

Cheese Course: Yorkshire Blue, Yarg, Rosary Goat’s Cheese, Wensleydale

Served with crackers, iced celery and a sharp, shiny quince jelly, this was a delightful quartet of English cheeses with a Yorkshire slant as you’d expect. Highlights here were the Yorkshire Blue which was like a creamier Stilton, not dissimilar to a recent creamy Cropwell Biahop I recently tasted and the Rosary which was fresh and light with a hint of goaty sharpness.

Surprise two came in the form of Kornel and I having a discussion about what should partner the cheese. I was waxing lyrical about white Burgundy and he in the Tawny Port camp. We settled on a 10 year old Warre’s Otima Tawny Port. Then he came back with a smile on his face and told me that they had a bottle of 30 year old Taylor’s Tawny, which had been used for a special staff tasting and one measure left. He generously offered me this with his compliments. It had a dark rose colour and had been softened and mellowed with age. It’s rounded smooth finish made every mouthful a delight!

Dessert: Sticky toffee soufflé with baked sticky toffee crumb, vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce.

The serving of this was as much a spectacle as the taste! Sarah brought the Soufflé to the table then carefully inserted a dessert spoon into the raised crust, whilst pouring in the piping hot liquid bronze that was the caramel sauce. To top this off the vanilla ice cream was placed like a cap on a well and then slightly sunk into the hole in the crust as it melted. Pure theatre!

Surprise number three came in the form of a dark mandarin coloured liquid in a glass. Straight away I knew that it was not of the grape but my palate had not been educated in the heady world of Sake so I had to concede to Kornel on this one. It was a plum infused Sake and was the perfect partner to the richness of the Soufflé.

There was yet one more surprise in store as I settled up and thanked Sarah and Kornel for their excellent service and a very enjoyable evening. They explained that it was the Executive Head Chef, Lee Murdoch’s evening off and so Sous Chef, Joe Carroll, was running the pass. I had the chance to meet this accomplished young star and its a great sign of the training and confidence that Lee has in his crew that they can deliver food of this quality. Lee’s wife is from the Phillipines and that I guess also explains the eclectic Asian influence on his modern British cuisine.

As I descended back to the ground floor I reflected on an amazing dining experience which further reinforced the many good thoughts I have about Leeds!