“I could see you living here” says my friend ” There’s all the things you love within a hundred yards of each other, a vinyl record shop, a fab independent wine merchants and an authentic Italian restaurant!”

It sounds perfect, almost too perfect. I wander into the wine merchants, whose name is as quirky as it is memorable Philglas and Swiggot. There’s several samples open for tasting, a rich and full flavoured Hungarian Furmit and a crisp and refreshing Alsatian Pinot Blanc from the legendary Domaine Ostertag. The team there are unified in their knowledge and passion for wines but not in a way that’s either elitist or intimadating.

My friends arrive and reluctantly I’m prized out of Philglas and Swiggot and into next door Osteria Antica Bologna .

I’ve recently discovered the delight of dining earlier in the evening, apart from being often the first to arrive, there’s often less pressure front of  house and there’s more opportunity to really explore the menu and wine list. There’s also the unexpected pleasure of seeing the restaurant stage fill with its cast of characters and extras as the evening unfolds and builds to a grand crescendo like finale!

Our waiter/sommelier for the evening is Luigi, who is as warm as the sun in his native Puglia! Like me he’s studying for his WSET Level 3 so I think we’re in for a vinous treat.

I’ve been told that my enthusiasm for wine can often leave my fellow dinners as parched as the Gobi desert whilst I pour over which wine to pair with which course. The new me is far more decisive! I spot a Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc/Sauvignon Blanc blend from the renowned Alto Adige winemaker Cantina Terlano

It’s a hit! A complex wine that’s perfectly balanced with lees ageing and just a little oak exposure.

We opt for a three course assault on the specials of the day and open the batting with an uplifting crab and avocado starter.

Aesthetically pleasing with the fine artistic presentation of a dish that really gets the salivary glands going! The visual fireworks are replaced with the sensory overload of silky avocado, coarse white crabmeat, crunchy frisée and the tickle of fresh chervil fused with a thick emulsion of tomato and oil that is more Bloody Mary than Marie Rose!

We share a side order of frito misto; Not one of us are willing to share our crab! Anyone surprised? Its light tempura batter cocoons little batons of courgette, calamari, and whitebait in a crispy gossamer envelope that is both seductive and sublime.

One course down and we’re already in Italian heaven!  A fresh youthful Barbera from Piemonte suggested by Luigi pairs beautifully with the homemade ravioli stuffed with slow braised beef. Its comforting texture sends endorphins racing through my blood as the combination of the sage butter and the meltingly good sweetness of the beef pass my lips.

One of the delights of Osteria is the sommelier’s little bin end book. It’s an Aladdin’s cave, I was excited when Luigi pointed out this stunning wine from Perugia. Reputedly one of the greatest red appellations of Umbria, Sagrantino di Montefalco is made from 100% Sagrantino grapes. This little beauty had been maturing away in bottle for around eight years after a year in oak barrels! Sophisticated, dry, with medium plus to high tannins, medium plus acidity  and medium alcohol. Aromas of cooked black fruits, sweet dried blackberry and fig. Silky smooth and wonderfully balanced with  medium plus body and long finish.

The perfect partner with our rustic roast rump of lamb with tomatoes and beans. Hearty and paysan but with a sweetness and complexity that shines above it’s simplicity.

It’s nine o’clock and the place is absolutely buzzing. A real mix of dinners of all ages. The chatter of voices and clunk of cutlery on plates is indicative of us not being the only ones enjoying ourselves!

Dessert is a simple affair of apple tart paired with this divine passito style red wine from Recioto della Valpolicella. Its sweet and rich and got as much power as a Maserati! It’s a decadent end to a memorable meal. As we order the bill the hospitality keeps flowing, firstly in the form of some complimentary petit fours and a glass of grappa and then some Limoncello!

This has to be one of the best Italian restaurants in South West London and with its close proximity to Clapham Junction will be one that I’ll be frequenting again soon! One hundred percent guaranteed!