Author: trwk1966

Tremezzo to Tuscany – A Food Lovers Autoroute 

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It would be really remiss of me not to wax just a little lyrical about how wonderful it was to return to Hotel La Perla in Tremezzo. The twin sisters Clelia and Mara who run this place with their husbands, Sergio and Luca are justifiably proud of their many awards and accolades from Tripadvisor Certificate of Excellence to other commendations.

They work tirelessly and with great humour to make your stay so special and comfortable whilst maintaining really high standards of cleanliness and comfort. The rooms are really well appointed and since our last stay 4 years ago have all been refurbished, another good sign of a hotel run not just for profit but for the benefit of its guests!

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We enjoyed a last morning coffee and spectacular view from our balcony (always worth paying a little extra for the view!) before grabbing a quick swim in the pool before breakfast.

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The pool was always a great place to cool off at the end of the day with plenty of sun loungers and a plentiful supply of towels!

The Hotel La Perla has the added advantage of being located about 2o mins walk from the lake so that it is also incredibly quiet unlike the many period hotels that adorn the lakeside but have to constantly compete with the hustle and bustle of the traffic!

After enjoying the spectacular view from the terrace over breakfast one last time……

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we loaded up the car and settled our bill before having a group photo with the our hosts!

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L-R ( Sergio, Clelia, Tim, Mara, Luca)

Whilst Gillian was taking this photo Luca remarked that we’d back in time for the Olympics in 4 years! ( the 2012 London Olympics were taking place when we last stayed there and the Rio Olympics were in full glow this time!).

As we bade farewell to the Lago di Como we joined the autostrada to Milan. I was somewhat slightly troubled by the AdBlue warning light flashing on the dashboard and so we stopped off at a large service area just west of Milan to seek assistance.

With my very limited Italian I managed to converse with the kiosk attendant and get a 5 litre carton of the fuel additive along with a watering can and a large funnel! With the car refuelled and the AdBlue sorted we were back on the road and heading to Parma our next stop. My attention turned to blogging and as I fired up the iPad and we tore along the autostrada words started flowing out of me like extra virgin olive oil from a press!

This was always going to be one of our longest drives of the tour at 350 miles and so we decided to schedule in several stops. As we headed along the E35 towards Parma we crossed the iconic Po river its vast banks flanked by fields of the legendary Arborio rice! It really got me thinking about risotto! However, we decided that our first shop should be a picnic lunch in Parma, arguably one of the must visit food stops in Emilia-Romagna. 

In our minds we were already salivating over crumbly and intense parmesan cheese, gossamer thin slices of prosciutto di parma and light and doughy focaccia!

After extracting ourselves from a near miss courtesy of driving the wrong way down a one way street we parked in a multistory just fifteen minutes walk from the old town.

As we strolled down the Via Garibaldi we were struck by the sheer number and choice of delicatessen. We opted for La Verdi. What a  a place!

imageParmesan wheels stacked up on wooden shelves, a legion of hams of every kind of age hanging to tantalise the purchaser!

We opted for just a standard aged parmesan and a 12 month aged prosciutto di parma. A little further down the Via Garibaldi we came across a bakery whose speciality was foccacia!

Armed with our purchases we crossed the Via Garibaldi and sat by some fountains to have our picnic.

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with this stunning panorama as our backdrop

Parma Panorama 360

We figured that we had just enough time to take in some of the stunning Parmesan architecture before hitting the road again.

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Back on the road we headed to Bologna. However, we made a schoolboy error and hadn’t properly researched our next stop! We spent an hour or so wondering around the central station area in search of the perfect Ragù but found nothing!

Disappointed we pushed on in the direction of Florence by passing the city but remembering our last visit here also 4 years ago as we saw the impressive Duomo towering over the city.

If ever you are minded to drive to the Tuscan coast make sure that you factor in the appalling nature of the road network!  The last 2 hours of our journey were tortuous in every sense of the word. Despite great views of the Tuscan vineyards we encountered worse roadworks than on the M1 “smart motorway” back home and 40mph speed restrictions!

Slightly short tempered and with a sense of humour stretched we eventually arrived on the  Monte Argentario peninsula just before 7pm. We passed through the little port of Porto Santo Stefano before the road wound it’s way up round the mountain and then down the other side to our hotel the stunning Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola.

After check in we were shown to our room. It had to be the best room in the hotel! Views towards the beach on one side and views towards Isola del Giglio on the other and the perfect place to catch the evening sunsets which were without a doubt a highlight of the 5 days we stayed there!

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Feeling slightly grubby from our drive and just wanting to chill we opted for room service; a bottle of the local Sangiovese wine, A tagliatelle with wild boar ragù ( as compensation for missing out in Bologna!) and a Caprese salad! Sitting on the balcony with the sound of the waves lapping against the rocks below it was pretty much the perfect dinner location and the food probably one of the best room service meals we’ve ever had!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hiking, Swimming and Eating – The Best of Lake Como

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The summer weather on the Italian lakes can be quite unpredictable with the searing heat causing dramatic thunderstorms to blow up. Today was no exception with one forecasted for around 4pm.

We breakfasted like kings on the terrace with a traditional Italian spread of local cheeses, hams, pastries and jams all washed down with a large dose of espresso! Made all the more dramatic against a backdrop of bells peeling from a nearby church.

Lake Como with Church Bell Soundtrack

Deciding to maximise our day and beat the storm we packed our rucksack and headed off on the “Greenway del Lario” a 10km trail that takes you between Lake Como and the many villages behind away from the busy main road between Colonno and Cadennabia.

We joined the trail just a distance from our hotel in the village of Susino. Here we were afforded stunning views of the lake and this striking church.

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We pressed on through Azzano before descending down to the lake from Mezzegra, pausing for a few moments to take in this view towards the Lido di Lenno.

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As the path weaved through a few lanes and brought us right onto to the lakeside the heat of the morning sun was becoming intense. Just before the San Giorgio Hotel there was a little beach and so we decided to take a refreshing dip with a little open water swimming to cool off.

We then headed off to the bustling lakeside town of Lenno which is one of the stopping points for the many ferry boats which are the essential mode of transport for travelling round Lake Como.

Jostling our way through the crowds at the busy Tuesday street market we soaked up the atmosphere by the little marina and admiring the view towards the Villa Balbianello.

imageA closer view shows the stunning opulence of these lakeside villas with  contrasting shades of terracotta, probably the holiday home of some A lister or millionaire!

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We headed back up through the market to pick up the Greenway again and as we did we heard “Bonjour” and not “Buongiorno”. It was our new found French friends Laurence and Rèmy and their families out exploring in Lenno! With a  “Bonne journée” we left them and continued on into Lenno to pick up the trail.

In Lenno we found a real gem. “La Cantina Vini Sfusi di Lenno”, or bulk wine cellar in English!image

Here you bring along your container and they fill it straight from these steel tanks at €2.20 per litre! We tried the Bonarda which was surprisingly drinkable for an everyday table wine!

They also sell lots of high end Italian wines and spirits too. We had hoped to go to one of the legendary Valtellina vineyards Pelizatti Perego, but having phoned Isabella one of the winemakers that morning she apologised that no one was available and advised me to book in advance for our next trip. As a comprise for not getting to Valtellina we decided to splash out on a bottle of the Passito style red wine that this region is famed for.

Sfursat di Valtellina, one of the two DOCG in Valtellina, is a dry red wine made by drying grapes in much the same way as in Amarone, the grapes being dried out in specially vented cellars before pressing, the wine is aged for a minimum of 18 months, with the key grape variety being Chiavennasca  (The local name for Nebbiolo), DOCG rules dictate at least 90% Nebbiolo in the blend.

Scanning the shelves in the Cantina we spotted one bottle of this treasured beauty left. We made our purchase and asked the owner which Valtellina foods would accompany this best. The answer came local aged Braesola, and any good local hard cheeses such as Bitto or Casera. With this crucial information carefully written down we continued along the Greenway trail.

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Just past Lenno, sauntering along the Greenway we passed a convent with a cobbled path on the opposite side going down to the lake. A chain cordoning the access off was down so we took this as in invitation to swim in this idyllic spot above.

Quiet and secluded away from the bustle of Lenno it was only as we swam out to the white buoy in the middle that we noticed a sign saying “Privado” ! At this point we took our chances and continue with our swim with no adverse consequences.

imageOut of the water and continuing back on the trail it took us past the stunning if not lesser known Villa Balbiano, where we paused to admire the perfect symmetry of the gardens.

Noticing that the weather was on the turn and anticipating the storm’s earlier arrival we doubled back along the route towards Lenno before we got to Colonno arriving just in time to pick up the shuttle boat to Tremezzo which took us a mere 10 mins.

imageBack at the hotel we jumped in the car to head down to the nearby village of Mezzegra to use the local laundrette and to buy our essential Valtellina cheeses for our locally themed picnic dinner.

As we arrived in Mezzegra the heavens opened and the streets became awash with raging torrents of water. We sat for a while sheltering in the car before making a run for it to the nearby laundrette . Whilst trying to figure out the operating instructions we met another couple in there who offered assistance.

Andy was a Swiss-German architect and his partner was a German neurologist. As our respective loads spun through their 35 minute cycle we chatted partly in German, partly in English.

They told me they had a boat on the lake. It turned out that is was more than just a boat! A magnificent 35 foot hand built Tuillo Abate powerboat which was moored nearby. Fast boats were Andy’s passion and we learnt a little of the history of Tuillo Abate whose shipyard was in the village of Mezzegra.

We all remarked it was like one of those random meetings in a movie where strangers connect and chat like old friends!

As the dryer finished its cycle we headed off the the little deli opposite to buy our cheese and then made our way back to Hotel La Perla in Tremezzo.

As we got ready for dinner the storm clouds started to lift, so we cracked open the 1999 Louise Brison champagne and enjoyed our aperitif on our balcony.

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We had planned to picnic on the balcony, however Clilia and Mara were having none of it! Instead, as their “snackbar” was closed they offered us the use of the main hotel terrace, put us out plates and crockery and some really lovely Bordeaux style wine glasses! It really was a very special picnic!

The freshest local ingredients; The Braesola was strongly flavoured from months of maturation seasoned with the fresh peppery rocket and offset with sweet plum tomatoes.

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The Sfursat was exceptional! A nose of plum, damson and chocolate. Really soft tannins, a dry long lingering finish with violets and damsons. It was the perfect partner to the local cheeses and Braesola. There’s always something really special about enjoying wine and food that are coterminous with the same terroir!

imageimageThe cheeses were pretty exceptional too especially the Casera with its hard, texture and intense mature flavour!

During dinner we had the added spectacle of the seeing the sunset again over the pink tipped mountain tops and as the terrace became enveloped in darkness, we looked out across the sparkling lights of the lakeside villages and decided to head back to our room in anticipation of a long drive the next day!

We were just about to crash out when there was a knock at the door; We’d forgotten that we had promised to meet our new found French friends for a final Grappa on the terrace! Again entering into the Entente Cordiale spirit and banishing those Brexit demons we joined Rèmy and Laurence on the terrace for a final Grappa and late night conversation!image

Three Languages, Two Countries, One Amazing Adventure!

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Although my working life is very science based, I was fortunate enough to study both French and German to A Level. My Italian is poor but on this trip I learnt a lot more than the usual Buonjourno or Grazie Mille!

I can’t think of the last time that I had the opportunity to speak all three of these languages in one day! Today was to be the exception! Waking again to the sound of water crashing over the Giessbach Falls and sunlight streaming into our room we needed little other motivation to test the outdoor biodynamic swimming pool.

“Guten Morgen, wie gethts ? ” I said to the receptionist on the way to the pool. I’d spotted this unusual pool, the day before and was curious about it. As we walked the short distance to the pool we could already feel the alpine sun burning our faces.

The pool is completely chemical free and to my surprise our swimming companions turned out to be newts!

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After our swim we enjoyed a short walk to the viewing area adjacent to the Falls which was stunning,

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before the delights of breakfasting al fresco again and then making our check-out before picking up the road just after Brienz for our journey to Lake Como.

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Our journey to the Italian speaking Canton of Ticino in the south of Switzerland took us through some of the most stunning scenery we saw on our tour with the added thrill of some hair raising drives with multiple hairpin bends.

I really couldn’t resist the temptation to put on “On Days Like These Days”, the Matt Monroe classic from the soundtrack of the “Italian Job” as the Merc glided along the mountain roads!

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Thanks to the intelligent SatNav we completely avoided the hour long queue at the San Gottardo tunnel by taking a parallel back road that brought us back onto the main road just before the tunnel.

After a good fifteen minutes (approx. 10 miles) we emerged from the darkness of the tunnel into the stimulating daylight of Ticino. We took a short pit stop at a very smart Swiss service station and then decided to seek respite from the searing heat of the day with a spot of open water lake swimming in Lake Maggiore.

Heading towards the glamorous lakeside metropolis that is Locarno we wanted to find a spot with good lake access without having to drive through too much traffic. The annual film festival was well under way and so this ruled out Locarno. Instead we headed to Magadino, a small lakeside down with a lovely “spiaggia publica” or public beach. This is the phrase that pays in Ticino/Italy as although most seaside and lakeside resorts have a plethora of pay and play beaches, the law states there always as to be a “spiaggia publica”

We took our first tentative steps into the refreshing waters of Lake Maggiore and found that the summer sun had warmed the lake, considerably so that it’s chilly edge had diminished and we spent a good half an hour swimming back and forth from one of the diving pontoons near the lakeside beach.

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Back in the car we stopped off at the Migros hypermarket. A brand that had evoked memories of childhood holidays 4 decades ago when there was a certain exotic quality about these European hypermarkets when all we had was Key Markets or the Coop!

The experience was no less stimulating today, a vast food hall with fresh produce of all kinds with a huge non foods area up stairs. Unlike the likes of Tesco piled high with poor quality low cost items these stores had quality merchandise at sensible prices, such a refreshing concept!

We decided to avoid the fast route to Lake Como by avoiding the border crossing at Chiasso/Como instead taking the scenic and much quieter mountain route to the east of Lake Lugano.

I did feel a little guilty as Gillian was driving and this route turned out to be a real white knuckle ride! On route to Tremezzo we had arranged to meet some friends who had a holiday home in the hillside village of Dizzasco overlooking Lake Como.

Arriving a little late courtesy of the winding and twisting mountain roads it was lovely meeting up with Martin and Beverly and having a cold beer in their garden overlooking the lake!

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At five we made our way to Tremezzo to the charming family run Hotel La Perla . We had stayed here for a week 4 years ago and were looking forward to our return. The twin sisters Clilia and Mara who run this place with their husbands Luca and Sergio are charming and delightful and greeted us like old friends returning for a weekend break in summer.We replied with a “Molto Gentile!”

Feeling quite tired from our drive we took a quick dip in the pool before taking dinner from their understated “snack bar”. Although not a formal restaurant they serve fantastic antipasti, pasta and salads on the terrace most nights between 6:30pm/8pm.

We dinned like kings with antipasti of prosciutto and melon, caprese salad and local braesola with rocket and Parmesan shavings.

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Followed by a delicious tagliatelle ragu and all washed down with a bottle of simple local red wine.

imageAll this against a stunning backdrop of the sun setting against the marble like pinkness of the mountains.

imageAs we ordered lemon sorbets with a glass of limoncello

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we did our bit for keeping the spirit of the Entente Cordiale alive by chatting to two French families at a nearby table on the terrace. Rèmy and his family were from Paris but originally Toulouse and were holidaying with his old school friend Laurence and his family who still lived in Toulouse.

I ordered 3 glasses of the top grade grappa and the three guys drank a toast to friendship despite Brexit! We continued to chat partly in English and partly in French and really enjoyed the random nature of our meeting.

As the stars shone brightly in the shadow of the moon we bid our new found friends “Bon nuit et dormez bien!” and slipped back to our room, drifting off into a deep sleep with the sound of cicadas in the background.

A Magical Mountain Adventure

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Waking again to the same sound of the Giessbach Falls which had sent us off to sleep, we started the day of our wedding anniversary with more than a hint of anticipation and excitement for what the day would bring forth.

We took breakfast on the terrace and secured pole position overlooking both the Falls and the lake. The Grand Hotel Giessbach breakfast was a sumptuous smorgorsborg of hot and cold dishes. Highlights were local cheese with wild alpine honey straight from the honeycomb, partnered with fruit bread and a killer Bircher muesli. Starting the day as we meant to go on we reached for the Prosecco and charged our glasses!

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As we swung back past perception to confirm what time the boat left for Interlaken we had another nice surprise. Jonathan our helpful hotel receptionist from the day before had bought us an anniversary card and some Swiss chocolates as a gift. A very thoughtful and generous touch.

The concierge confined that the funicular which connects the hotel with the boat station departed at 10:40 and handed us the complimentary passes that hotel guests have for use of this novel transfer.
The funicular has the honour of being the oldest and first to have been installed in Switzerland. I’ve seen these in many locations around the world but this one certainly is the most dramatic.

imageThe Grand Hotel Giessbach stands proudly on the side of a mountain adjacent to the Giessbach Falls. It was saved from destruction after falling into disrepair by a consortium of wealthy Swiss businessmen who were keen to preserve this iconic bundling. It has the air of a palatial grand estate adorned with chandeliers and ornate furnishings and has been faithfully restored to its former glory.

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The funicular took just a few minutes to convey us from the hotel down to its own boat station on the lake. Long before the winding road was built the only way to reach the hotel was by boat from Interlarken and then funicular.

Hotel guests can also purchase a first class return ticket for the hour or so trip to Interlaken which was a subsidised bargain at 30 Euros per person. First Class also guarantees you a seat on the upper deck where we were afforded some stunning views of the Lake Brienz and the surrounding mountains. There was also a little bar so we decided another Prosecco was in order!

The toot toot of the ferry announces to us our embarkation. We pass several lakeside villages dotted around lack Brienz as we zigzag our way to Interlaken Ost across the lake. It’s turquoise green waters contrasting with the intense blue of the sky.

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On arrival at Interlaken Ost boat station we changed to our third mode of transport for the train journey to Wengen changing at Lauterbrunnen. One of the great things about Switzerland is the Swiss passion for ruthless efficiency which means trains running to time with minimal hanging around between connections!

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At Wengen just five minutes walk from the train station is the Cable car to Mannlichen. Already within striking distance of the stunning Alps this last stage of journey was for me the most exciting! Powdery white snow dusting the majestic peaks of the mountains like a patisserie chef adding the finish to a fondant!

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Exiting the cable car, the vista was breathtaking, a combination of quaint Swiss chalets, rolling green alpine pastures and snow capped mountains set against an azure blue sky.

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A further surprise as we passed a group of cows, their large bells clunking in harmony around their necks was the dramatic and haunting sound of the local Alpenhorns and an annual Alpenhorn festival.

Click here for clip of Alpenhorn Festival
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Walking from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg along trail Number 33 was breathtaking and ranks as one of my favourite walks of all time! Words and pictures can’t really do justice to the beauty of the panoramic vistas.

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After ninety minute of walking along the trial we arrived at the tiny village of Kleine Scheidegg just in time to pick up the mountain railway to Grindelwald.  From here we crammed onto another train full of international tourists returning from the Jungfrau theme park back to Interlaken hoping to catch the last ferry back to our hotel.

We arrived back at Interlaken Ost some thirty minutes or so after the last boat departed but realised if we took the next fast train to Brienz we could catch it up there so as to enjoy our return to the hotel in the same way we departed and save on a thirty Euro taxi fare from Brienz!

We made excellent time back to Brienz and still had time for a refreshingly short dip in the icy waters of lake Brienz, so cold that it actually took my breath away, in time to catch our boat.

As the funicular pulled us back up the mountainside our thoughts turned to dinner. We had booked a table in the critically acclaimed Cascades restaurant in the hotel but having spent the day in the alpine fresh air we were reluctant to relinquish the great outdoors and so decided to opt for the bar menu again on the terrace.

When we got to the bar the terrace overlooking the lake was buzzing as it was such a beautiful evening. We need not have worried! Our new found friends from the previous evening Swiss Toni and Giota had reserved the best two tables for us so that we could chose which one we wanted! They had anticipated that we would probably want to eat al fresco and didn’t want us to have a disappointing end to our special day!

Hotel dinner

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Sautéed Goat’s Cheese with Wild Garlic Pesto.

The wild garlic pesto was a triumph complimenting the richness of the goats cheese perfectl!

Main course

Entrecôte steak with thin fries and garlic/herb butter. Juicy , perfectly cooked: rare for me and medium rare for Gillian. We asked if the sommelier could come from the Cascades restaurant to advise on a wine to partner the steak, something Swiss.

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We had the chance to meet the charming sommelier, Kevin Hischke who recommended Teninento La Prella from near Ascona on Lake Maggiore, in Ticino. This wine, a Merlot grand reserve had a nose of chocolate, cherry and spice. On the palette there was morello cherries and a hint of cherries in kirsch combined with soft tannins in a well rounded finish. A perfect recommendation with the steak.

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As we ordered a post prandial coffee we asked Swiss Toni to recommend a typical Swiss digestif . He recommended Nocino a nut liquor which was syrupy, sweet and with a buttery nutty taste.

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Giota, Tim and Swiss Toni!

imageThanking both Toni and Giota for looking after us both so well and making the end to our special day so memorable we climbed the two flights of stairs and slept like the proverbially logs!
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Our Road to the Bernese Oberland

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A great nights sleep is always a good way to start a new adventure, and today was no exception. The luxury and comfort afforded us by the Chateau Courban combined with the excellent Discovery Menu and a fine Chablis to provide the great cocktail for that beauty sleep!

Fortified by an energetic swim and a mini work out by the pool, breakfast was a heavenly mix of home baked Quiche Lorraine, jams and pastries accompanied by several mind blowing espressos!


Back on the road, I set about the serious business of Blogging whilst Gillian took the wheel. The first part of the journey out of the Côte d’Or was fairly plain. It wasn’t until we were well into Franche Comte and past Bessancon that things started to become more interesting.

Past Pontarlier the landscape takes on more of an Alpine appearance. This is the real essence of Franche Comte. Road side stalls selling wheels of their delicious aged Comte cheese, alpine pastures decked with cows, their bells creating a beautiful little symphony.

We crossed the border into Switzerland shortly afterwards. Sneeze and you’d miss it! A crossing so easy and effortless that it was a far cry from the painful, numbing queues at Dover!

Before too long we had reached Lake Neufchâtel and went about the important business of finding a suitable location to carry out a spot of open water lake swimming.

We turned off the Swiss route 1 and headed towards the picture postcard mediaeval town of Estavayer du Lac. Access to the lake was not that easy and some distance from where we could park! I looked at iMaps on the phone and navigated us to a little hamlet called Vernay.

At the end of a twisting narrow grit track there opened up a grassed parking area right by the Lac and the most delightful little beach without hordes of people.

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It was getting close to 3pm and the cooling waters of the lake called.  The first 20m were really shallow and so although the lake is fed with alpine fresh water the heat of the sun had warmed it to a refreshing but tepid temperature.

Revived and refreshed we pushed on into the heart of the Bernese Oberland, passing the rather industrial capital Bern. As we passed Lake Thun we started to fully appreciate the dramatic nature of the lake mountain combination, even so we were quite unprepared for the sheer beauty of our final destination that day, the stunning Grand Hotel Giessbach.

Our arrival no less dramatic on account of the white knuckle ride along the steep narrow road with multiple hairpin bends passing the iconic Giessbach Falls before arriving at the Hotel.

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Our arrival was made all the more welcoming due to a charming young Swiss Bermudan called Jonathan Wenger. Although only on a work experience placement he was a real ambassador for the hotel. Helpful and courteous and accessing the many complex Swiss rail timetables to help us plan our mountain hike for the next day. I’m sure that one day he will be the General Manager of a Leading Hotel of the World!

Feeling tired we deposited our bags in our room and hastened back to the bar where we met the lovely Giota, a Greek ex pat who ran the bar with the charismatic Swiss Toni.

Having ordered the Giessbach burger and fries we indulged in a cocktail with our table over looking the lake on one side and the Falls on the other.

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Always keen to try something new Giota introduced me to the local speciality, the Hugo, while Gillian opted for her favourite, the Margarita!

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The Hugo

Fill a tall wine glass with ice.

Add some crushed mint to the glass and a squeeze of lime.

Pour over about 30ml of finest Swiss organic elderflower cordial and fill 1/3 with Prosecco.

Top up with a little soda water to taste …… Perfectly refreshing and best enjoyed with a mountain/lake view.

After dinner we indulged further by asking Toni if he could make us a nightcap of Esspresso Martinis, he obliged with two killer numbers that sent us off into a golden slumber with a lullaby of the sound of the water crashing over the nearby Falls.

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Dinner Fit For a Gourmand

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We arrived at Chateau Courban shortly before 6pm still buzzing with the excitement of our serendipitous visit to Champagne Louise Brison . As the evening sun bathed the exquisite gardens in warm light we planned to take a cooling dip in the pool as soon as we checked in.

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Check in was smooth and efficient but they kept from us the best surprise of all…. An upgraded room which was straight out of a scene from the new BBC drama Versailles. A master bedroom with stunning views across the Côte d’Or countryside leading to a bathroom whose central feature was a beautiful roll top enamel bath, with shower room and toilet in separate rooms off of the bathing area so as not to spoil the Feng Shui!

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We wasted no time in heading to the pool area for a refreshing pre dinner swim. Decadently we enjoyed a half bottle of the 2010 vintage Louise Brison champagne as an aperitif while getting ready for dinner and luxuriating in our sumptuous surroundings. (See previous posting for tasting notes)

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This was our second visit to Courban after discovering this stunning oasis last year. We weren’t the least bit surprised to learn that many guests return again and again in what is a case of once discovered never forgotten.

It’s a great stopover at anytime of year especially if you’re heading south to the French Alps, Switzerland or Italy. It was also incredibly great value at a pre Brexit booking price of around £200 for half board which included a four course Discovery menu from their legendary Head Chef, Takashi Kinoshita. The restaurant is also deservedly included In the Michelin selection 2016.

Whilst perusing the Discovery menu we enjoyed a glass of the house champagne, Champagne Robert Barbichon, a Blanc de Blanc with 15% Pinot Noir, made to biodynamic standards in the Côte des Bars. This was the first time I had tasted a Champagne made in this style and the 15% Pinot certainly added to the taste making it arguably a more suitable companion for the amuse bouche.

Dinner

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Amuse Bouches No1

Mustard macaroon with toasted pecans.
I loved the sweet and savoury juxtaposition of this mouthful, a perfect balance of light sugary meringue and tangy mustard. It also looked incredible.

Deep fried epoisse parcels presented on a bed of dried lentils. I think this dish would work better with a more over ripe epoisse when its power would balance with the Tempura. Tasty though the same.

Amuse Bouches No 2

Gazpacho with Celery Foam.
Like a lightly textured fresh and slightly spicy Bloody Mary.

Starters

Prawns with baby aubergine.
Prawns in a light tempura with daikon salad, wakame with a yuzu and toasted sesame oil vinaigrette.
Lemon foam and sweet soy sauce binding all the ingredients together.

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Duck Foie Gras with petits pois mousseline.
A fusion of spicy flavours including coriander seeds and chorizo offset by perfect soft and silky textured foie gras. Garnished with lemon foam and egg yolk confit.

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Main Course
Roasted supreme of Bourg en Bresse chicken with duxelles of girolles mushrooms new potato soufflé and courgette ribbons, veal jus, spinach with red basil. Garnished with whole sautéed girolles.

This breed of chicken in my opinion deserves its place as the best in the world. Melt in the mouth breast, moist and flavoursome. The devil sauce carrying loads of Unami flavour from its base veal jus.

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Dessert

Courban countryside dessert.
A soft cream cheese set in a light green meringue wrap with white chocolate batons and ice cream.

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A Summer Swim
Segments of Pink grapefruit and red shizo sorbet, peach and toasted sesame meringue with red shizo garnished with rose wine jelly and green spun sugar.
Light, fresh and sharp the perfect palette cleansing dessert in stunning summery like technicolour.

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We chose a stunning local wine from nearby Chablis…..with the main course in mind.
Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles Regnard 2011. A great nose expressing both minerality and fruit. On the palette, further minerality, augmented with notes of plump ripe quinces, a fat wine with a long finish and one that I believe will continue to improve with age.

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We had just enough room for coffee and petit fours. These provided the perfect finale to this discovery menu. Light and chewy meringues and rich lavender flavoured chocolate truffles.

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We strolled back to our room having thoroughly enjoyed our Gastronomic experience wondering what the next day would bring as we drifted off into a deep sleep.

The Great Gastro Adventure (three countries, two foodies one mission)

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( It seems hard to believe that I started timsfoodandwinetravels.com on a whim just before last years food and wine tour to France. Sitting in the co pilot seat with my iPad on my lap I’m looking forward to sharing with you the next great Gastro Adventure. A two week tour to the heart of the Tuscan wine country via
Champagne, the Bernese Oberland and Lake Como. Our return taking us via the stunning Val d’Aosta and my Achilles heel Burgundy.

Our journey started with a bleary eyed slog to Dover. Heading the Twittersphere advice of both P and O and Dover Port authority to allow extra time for check in due to additional security.
As the Pride of Canterbury slipped her mornings and we edged out into the Straits of Dover we took up pole position on the top deck, soaking up the warmth of the sun’s rays as we saw the iconic cliffs of Dover shrink onto the horizon.
In less time than it it takes me to drive the 20 miles or so to London we were embarking onto the Calais quayside and out into the French countryside.
Our first destination was Courban in the Côte d’Or via the Route du Cremant. The area around Chatillon-sur-Seine is known as the Chatillonnais. It’s renowned for making the sparking wines made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir called Cremant du Burgogne.
The thing I love about these adventures is the serendipitous finds that come from the least likely of places. Day one of this trip was no exception. As we neared our first destination I saw a sign proclaiming “Champagne vigneron”. My analytical brain starting processing this information. Was this a random Cremant producer pushing the limits of the AOC or did the Champagne AOC really extend this far south!
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By the time I’d come to the conclusion it could well be the later we were already 2km down the road when we passed another Champagne house by the road side. Curiosity well and truly got this cat and I lept out of the car like a fan who had his last Pokemon in sight!

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I approached the cellar door of   Champagne Louise Brison with an air of trepidation, I was really hoping that they would be open. I wandered into the tasting room and saw a wall adorned with award winning accolades from such prestigious sources as Decanter, Vinalies Internationales Concors des Oenologues de France and the International Wine Challenge.

My heart started beating faster with the anticipation that I had stumbled across by chance an award winning champagne house at the very southern tip of the Champagne AOC.
The office door swung open and we were met by the charming Julie Gallecier, their Sales Assistant.

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What struck me as we were driving through this area is that unlike the Epernay and Reims areas to the north west where the terroir is dominated by viticulture in the Aube area it’s farming that dominates with small pockets of viticulture.

What makes this area different is also the terroir, Burgundian in character (Clay/limestone) and suited to the staples of Burgundy; Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It doesn’t suit the other grape varietal used in Champagne the Pinot Menier.

A family concern, the estate of 13 hectares is named after his maternal grandmother, who have farmed the area for generations it was the courage and determination of the current owner Monsieur Earl Brulez, who loved champagne that led to the creation of Louise Brison. Unlike generations before him who sold their precious grapes to the cooperatif for the guarantee of financial security but the anonymity of the cooperatif; instead he choose the high stakes of going it alone to produce his own individual style vintage champagne. If that wasn’t setting the bar high enough he further set out three golden rules to which he wanted to produce his first champagne.

1. Reasoned and Reasonable – affordable vintage champagnes that had purpose.

2. Respectful of the Harmony – although not certified biodynamic, the wines are produced to biodynamic standards to preserve the microbiology of the soil. By avoiding chemical fertilisers, insecticides and fungicides and maintaining these organic conditions the vines are free to draw minerals from the subsoil and to improve their metabolism and production of organic compounds.

3. Revelation of the Aromas – this house only produces vintage champagnes with huge ageing potential. It’s no accident that each vintage is cellared for a min of 6 years to allow all their flavours and aromas to develop. This gives their champagnes refinement, roundness and character. It also means that half a dozen bottles of say the 2009 vintage purchased now but opened each year for the next six years are likely to taste different each year. This will also effect the suitability of the champagne to be either any aperitif or accompany a certain food style.

This schematic nicely illustrates how these champagnes change character over their life.
imageAnd so to the tasting….

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Louise Brison, 2010 Brut Vintage. A 50/50 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend. A nose of citrus especially grapefruit and toasty brioche from the oak ageing. By their standards this is a young vintage but had a surprisingly long finish; in its current form would be an ideal aperitif but showed great promise of good food pairing in future.

Louise Brison, 2009 Brut Vintage. Has received 6 accolades.
Gault Millieu, 2015 Effervescents du Monde, Silver Medal/ 2016 Decanter World Wine Awards, Silver Medal/les Vinalies 2016 Grand Prix d’Excellence

Notes of spice, violets, quince, pineapple and oak on the nose. Similar on palate with a  little oak. This champagne has great ageing potential.

Louise Brison, 2008 Vintage, Blanc de Blanc. This has won 2 medals, a gold medal in Chardonnay of the world, and a gold medal in best French wine in USA.

A nose of wet stones yielding an overall minerality with a hint of oak after spending 9 months in barrel. On the palate there are both salty and citrus notes, a perfect partner to fruit de mer.

Champagne Rose  L’impertinente. A 100% Pinot macerated Rose, 2010. An deep pink colour with a dark orange hue. Notes of wild strawberries, red fruits on the nose, with oak toastiness. On the palette the red fruit theme continues with further hints of morello cherry. The finish is long and fat. Whilst this would be an ideal aperitif, suit white meats and work sublimely with a strawberry Charlotte it surprisingly partners BBQ meats.

We thanked Julie for the degustation, made a few purchases and then headed off to Courban. Before we left, Julie suggested we take the slightly longer route via the champagne villages of Noe les Malettes and Fontette. Between these two villages is a panoramic view across the vineyards called Plateau de Blu.

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Plateau de Blu. A stunning view of the champagne vineyards.

As we pulled up into the car park of the Chateau du Courban we reflected on the fact that we hadn’t made it to the Route du Cremant but had discovered instead one of the hidden jewels of champagne.

Al Boccon di Vino -Venetian Gastro Heaven!

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We’d been planning to go to the Richmond institution that is Al Boccon di Vino since my friend Jojo went there about a year ago and hadn’t stopped raving about it since. Be warned you really need to book in advance and although I usually prefer dinner over lunch, as their menu free banquet  can last well over two and half hours on Jojo’s advice we opted for a Saturday lunchtime booking.

Joining us were Jojo and her other half Pete, they had the advantage of knowing a little about the running order. “Don’t ask for the wine list Tim, there isn’t one!” Jojo said. This was great insight as when the restaurant manager Simona asked us”You want Redda or Whita wine?” in her thick Italian accent, I was able to resist the temptation to ask for the wine list!

Whilst I love to spend time pondering a menu and wine list I am equally happy to just go with the flow especially on the back of some great recommendations. I love the confidence dare I say even arrogance of a restaurant that says “we’ll serve you the most amazing, seasonal fresh ingredients and wines that match but don’t expect a choice!” I think if more establishments could pull this off,  dining out would be more of an adventure!

Having strolled down the river from Twickenham to Richmond before lunch we went for the white wine option and were rewarded with a crisp Lugana, a delightful floral wine with a wonderful bouquet.

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The Lugana proved to be the perfect accompaniment to our never ending run of starters.

First up. English asparagus with parmesan shavings, rocket and pomegranate. Deliciously simple and a great seasonal starter to kick off the proceedings.

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This was augmented by the classic pairing of Charentais melon, with its wonderful bouquet and sweet tasting flesh, which worked brilliantly with the slightly salty air dried prosciutto.image

We were by no means done with the rolling starters, the next duo was a delightful vegetarian course one of sliced artichokes in olive oil with herbs and garlic and the other a mixture of grilled courgettes, aubergine and peppers with plenty of freshly baked italian bread to capture all that nectar like dressing.

The next offering was a juicy seafood combo of giant garlic prawns and razor clams in their shell served in a rich garlic and herb sauce, perfectly cooked so that the seafood retained its texture without the rubbery consistency that comes with over cooking these delicate morsels.

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We were still a course away from the mains and the wine was flowing well, Pete and I were already exhibiting a healthy glow….

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Finishing off the last of the Lugana as the pasta course arrived we ordered red to come with the meat pasta dish, a delicious Sangiovese I recall but to be honest I was starting to feel a little squiffy at this point.

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As the pasta course was cleared away,  a fanfare from the kitchen heralded the entry of a ceremonial cortege of waiting staff carrying a vast roasting tin with a whole suckling pig inside, its crackling sparkling.

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Riccardo (left of photo) is every inch the Italian stallion, proudly showcasing the wonderful fare on offer, its’ no surprise that he is both chef and owner and never seems happier than being front of house exuding Italian charisma and charm that the likes of George Clooney can only dream of!imageThe Suckling pig was a triumph although I was starting to feel just a little full. The crackling was crisp but the meat juicy, succulent and flavoursome, served with a simple pomme purée.

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Our finale came in the form of a simple strawberry compote with pannacotta and served with a deliciously rich Moscato di Trani from Puglia. One of the oldest DOC in Italy, exhibiting a wonderful nose of buttery honey and yellow fruit jam; a taste that had real depth with a rich flavour perfect with the fruit compote.

With the wines costing approx £25 and the the meal fixed at £45 you know where you are budget wise here but do be prepared to be blown away by the quality of the food!

One nice surprise at the end was that with my half century birthday just 2 weeks away our generous friends Jojo and Pete treated us to lunch!  We really did feel quite spoilt!

 

A Birthday celebration in the Cotswolds!

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A few weeks ago I reached that most auspicious of birthdays! The half century! To be honest its been a great excuse for a little more of the things that a like to do best; drinking fine wine, eating amazing food and catching up with friends!

On the day itself Gillian had planned an overnight stay at the legendary Lords of The Manor hotel in Upper Slaughter. Still recovering from the previous week in which I had managed to get in a vintage tasting at Furleigh Estate in Dorset combined with an overnight stay at the incomporable Summer Lodge Hotel in Evershot, dinner at The Quality Chop House in Farringdon with friends and a magnum of the iconic Domaine de Trévallon 2001!

Determined to make the most of the forecasted flaming June weather we made an early start arriving in the sleepy Cotswold village of Upper Slaughter shortly before 1pm.

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The front lawn at The Lords of the Manor

Quickly checking into our room, we changed into our walking gear and set off on an appetite building 15 mile circular walk of the local villages.

Our first stop was the neighbouring village of Lower Slaughter. The contrast could not be greater between these two Cotswold jewels. Lower with its bustling hoards of visitors, picturesque stream and Mill juxtaposed with the tranquility and calm of Upper Slaughter and without a single coach party in sight!

By contrast Lower Slaughter is a world away from the heaving hordes of visitors that flock to Bourton-on -the-Water, our next stop on our walk. I don’t know why towns feel it’s really necessary to tap into some sort of Romantic association with things Venetian, but I do feel that just because there’s a few little streams running through the town that calling it “the Venice of the Cotswolds” is really poetic licence gone too far!

We picked up a delicious picnic at one of the really outstanding gems in the village, Bakery on The Water. Quiche Lorraine’s with melt in the mouth pastry, delicious spiced pork sausage rolls and a tempting selection of tarts and cakes!

We made our escape from the maddening crowds and found peace and tranquility adjacent to the River Windrush.

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Our picnic spot by the River Windrush, Bourton-on-the -Water

We picked up the pace fortified by our picnic and followed the waymarked trail across woods and valleys of buttercup clad pastures and sun kissed meadows.

After several hours we arrived in the tiny village of Naunton and headed to the village pub for some refreshments before completing the last few miles back to Upper Slaughter.

On arrival back at the hotel we were greeted by Michael Obray, the General Manager who informed us that we were being upgraded to the full tasting menu which was a really lovely surprise!

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The bedrooms at the Lords of the Manor

We thought that we’d start as we meant to go on and ordered cocktails to sup whilst getting ready for dinner! The long walk had given me a thirst and so this Negroni went down a treat!

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Pre Dinner Negroni!

Included in our Secret Escapes package was a complimentary glass of NV. Tattinger, currently one of my favourite champagnes.

We decided to take this with our canapé al fresco in our attempt to squeeze every last drop of warm sunshine out of the day.

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A trio of Canapé: L-R Mackerel with Apple, Foie Gras Tuile. Goats Cheese with Raisin and Caper Jelly

These were all outstanding and really set the tone for the whole meal. I loved the delicate balance of the food pairings here e.g. the saltiness of the goats cheese with the sweetness of the grape and caper jelly.

As the sun started to go down we were called through for dinner and the anticipation of what would follow was almost too much!

Set Tomato Consomme
Wine Pairing of Altesse (Rousette) from Savoy

 

The appetiser arrived with a flourish! Like an exquisitely composed still life the complimentary colours of the tomato and chervil enhancing each others colour whilst the natural colour of the viola shone on the consommé canvas. Flavours and textures balanced perfectly with added creaminess from the ricotta and crunch from the pine nuts! A real triumph! Meanwhile the Rousette grape delivered a steely clean and fresh taste with an apple like acidity that partnered the consommé jelly to a tee.

Clos Thou Jurancon, 2012
Duck Liver rolled in port

 

The next course arrived with another sublime pairing suggested by our sommelier Michael Bray. The richness of the Petit Manseng grape yielding notes of thick unctuous honey and sweet orange marmalade. By contrast the duck liver’s richness enhanced by rolling in port contrasted with the texture and acidity of the apple jelly, pickled rhubarb and hazelnuts.

Margaret River Cullen Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc,2014
Langoustine Linguine with Thai shellfish consommé

Course number four arrived and we were already feeling the wow factor! It was really no surprise to learn of the restaurants well deserved one Michelin star status. This course balanced oriental spiciness with stabilising flavours of oriental mushrooms and tomato. The exotic notes of papaya combined with hints of apple and honeysuckle in the superb 2014 Mangan Vineyard Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc with a little vanilla spice from light oaking and good natural acidity.

La Rioja Alta, Vina Alberdi Reserva, 2009
Roast Loin, braised neck and confit belly of spring lamb

My favourite red meat is always going to be new season English lamb. Here served three ways with spectacular presentation and garnished with olive tapenade, tomato confit, minted broad beans and lamb jus, it was just heaven! What made it even more special was the pairing with a stellar 2009 La Rioja Alta, Reserva! Just 2 months earlier I had sat in their tasting room in Haro, with Ainhoa Elosegui, their PR manager learning more about this iconic estate! Here the wine combines notes of violets, and damsons with a little pepper. So good it’s one I’ll be seeking out again!

A palette cleansing Mango and Kalamansi foam shot prepared our tastebuds for the finale…image

Franz Haas, Moscato Rosa, Friuli 2011
Raspberry Souffle with tonk a beanie cream

Before the soufflé finalé they bought me a lovely decorated  plate with a single macaroon and a candle with a chorus of happy birthday!

The raspberry soufflé followed…..which was incredible, light and with a zing of raspberry sharpness contrasting with the light creaminess of the tonka bean ice cream. The finale eclectic pairing was a rare Franz Haaz Moscato Rosa from Friuli. Its rarity and low production are due to the low yield. It is not a late harvested grape, nor it is a passito, naturally it has a high content of sugar and is harvested when ripened well.

Before heading into the lounge to take coffee we had our final surprise of the evening and something that speaks volumes for the brigade working the kitchen at Lords of the Manor, the entire service that evening had been executed under the supervision of Senior Sous Chef, Paul Evans, who came out to meet us in person.

It’s always really great to get the opportunity to speak to the chef in person especially when they’ve delivered such a memorable tasting menu!

 

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We settled down with a little espresso and these delightful petit fours before rolling into our comfy beds for a wonderfully long lie in!

It’s always hard thinking about breakfast after such an amazing dinner the night before but Senior Sous Chef Paul, had already piqued my interest! The full English was so worth it!

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Beautiful presentation and the really neat thing was that it was a manageable size portion that left you satisfied without disappointing! Perfectly poached eggs and the crispiest of bacon excited my taste buds all over again.

After breakfast we decided to walk around the ten plus acres of grounds and gardens. Truly stunning as this little montage shows

Before heading off Michael Bray the sommelier had one more trick up his sleeve and offered to show me round his extensive cellar under the dinning room! Above ground they’ve also converted one of the old fire places to house some of the more popular wines in a more ambient cool temperature.

Overall a stunning way to spend my 50th birthday and a brilliant introduction to this jewel in the Cotswold crown!

 

 

 

 

 

La Rioja and San Sebastián – A Gastronomic Adventure Part 3

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We had pre booked a car rental from Sixt car hire just a short distance from our hotel for the day trip to La Rioja and to our surprise although we’d booked just a modest entry level manual car we got upgraded to a rather nice Mini Countryman Automatic  by the charming and helpful Laura.

By 8:15 we had hit the road. The weather was not so kind to us on the drive down to Haro but by the time we arrived at our first stop, the legendary Vina Tondonia, the rain stopped and the sun started breaking through.

I had been recommended to visit Viña Tondonia by an oenophile friend and having contacted them the week before had managed to book on the only English speaking tour that day. The downside was that we had to be there by 10am and it was at least a ninety minute drive!  In the end it took longer as we ended up taking a wrong turn! By the time I had realised my error we were running twenty minutes behind schedule and consequently missed the start of the tour at  Viña Tondonia.


We joined the tour just in time as they were about to enter the cooper’s workshop! This was a real highlight for me. Oak barrels are something that I kind of took for granted until on a recent trip to France I learned that the copper’s art is a dying one.

With Viña Tondonia making the most classic style of Rioja it’s no surprise to learn that they are the only Bodgega to employ to full-time coopers. It stakes on average 2-3 years to serve a cooper’s apprentice and currently there is no apprentice learning the craft!

It’s a highly skilled job and there’s a lovely Spanish phrase that really epitomises this “When you can measure something without measuring you have the eye of a cooper!”.

The American Oakis seasoned fror twelve months then in strips measuresd oiut

The cellars themselves

 

 

 

 

 

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Wines , cooper take, La Vina Pombal,

hard and Vitoria

Lunch Pintxos

Dinner amazing restaurant