Do The Strand!

No I’m not compelling you to attempt the dance that is the theme of this Roxy Music classic from 1973 or its 30 years later cover by German synth pop band Alphaville. The Strand Dining Rooms is a restaurant located within Grand Buildings at 1-3 Strand, with an envious view of the most iconic of London landmarks , Nelson’s Column.

The Strand Dining Rooms is located in the former atrium of Grand Buildings, which was largely taken up with an amazing fountain with goldfish in it! In case you are curious as to how I came by this factoid, my wife used to work in Grand Buildings many years ago! Obviously the rising value of central London prime real estate has done away with such flights of fancy!

On this cold and damp November morning, I had some time to kill before heading off to a meeting and fancied breakfast at this venue. I had heard mixed reviews so thought it would be worth satisfying my curiosity.

A cursory glance at the breakfast menu already had my interest piqued. Apart from the breakfast staples of pastries and the usual full English there were a number of enticing treats on offer. I was taken by the moderately healthy option of Smoked Salmon, Poached Eggs, Avocado and Lightly Grilled Tomatoes. At just over the £10 limit I set myself for breakfast this seemed a little indulgent but when the food arrived it was well worth the spend!

Smoked Salmon and Poached Eggs

Buttered toasted sourdough bread, perfectly poached eggs ,runny yolks , firm whites , tastefully garnished with chopped chives. A generous helping of smoked salmon and an avocado that was ripe but not mushy! Overall a solid performance across the board. Backed up with great service! Spacious tables to allow you to spread out rather than the picnic table affairs that are so common in central London.

One of my real bug bears about the this great city is that so often venues with eclectic views, position or location exploit that with overpriced underwhelming food. Then Strand Dining Rooms definitely hit the mark in the breakfast department and looking at their 3 course Best of British dinner menu for £34.50 I think it won’t be long before I return to try out their dinner offering!

Dorset Cream Tea at Cilla and Camilla’s

Down in the beautiful West Dorset countryside for a flying visit to assist my in laws this weekend. I brought my trusty Macbook and was hoping for a bit of Blogging time. One of the trade offs for leaving the Metropolis is that for every 10 miles west of London you travel you decrease the chance of getting a decent free Wifi signal by 10%!

In one last act of Blogging desperation, I headed into the nearby town of Beaminster. A charming place and once home to foraging Masterchef winner Matt Folas’ first restaurant venture the Wild Garlic.

It’s been about 12 months since I’ve been down here and the stylish Cilla and Camilla’s boutique gift shop came to this Blogger’s rescue in form of their newly opened tea shop at the rear of the store.

It had been a fairly typical damp and dismal day of that fine Dorset rain so as I sat at the nicely finished cafe table in the coffee shop the clouds parted and I saw my first glimpse of blue sky! The soothing smooth jazz tones of Stan Getz and Astrud Gilberto provided ambient background music and I was starting to feel nicely at home in this little Dorset oasis.

A quick glance at their menu revealed the must have option of the classic Dorset cream tea.

Dorset cream Tea

Dorset cream Tea

Within a few minutes a warm fruit scone arrived with a generous portion of artery clogging clotted cream and fruity strawberry jam.

I then settled down to the serious business of writing,  contented and relaxed and looking forward to my next visit to Dorset!.

One Black Cat is Lucky! Two is Baltic Fusion!

A few months ago while up in Birmingham, I indulged with a visit to one of the best independent wine merchants in the UK, Connollys Wine, main branch located next to Snow Hill train station, their other in Solihull. It’s official this is a wine lovers paradise and staffed by some of the nicest and most knowledgeable people that I’ve had the pleasure to meet on my food and wine travels. In addition to being a treasure trove of Burgundian gems at affordable prices , they stock an eclectic, exciting selection of wines from around the globe.

They also have their finger on the pulse of Brum’s booming restaurant scene, so it seemed rude not to ask what they thought was the current hot ticket!

Without hesitation they said Two Cats Kitchen! Pressing them a little further it appeared that their recommendation was supported by a glowing Tripadvsior recommendation and since my visit a fairly decent review by the Guardian. I enquired as to what style of cuisine  was on the menu and the answer came back “New Baltic”. This brought back memories of culinary nightmares from my first visit to St.Petersburg many years ago!  Unperturbed by this and with a large degree of curiosity I went ahead and made a reservation.

Before I’d even phoned to make a reservation I was impressed that Connollys were supplying and advising them on wines, I knew instinctively that we were in for a real treat.

Locating this oasis of truly unusual and exciting cuisine is in itself an adventure, with the taxi dropping us off near the old police station in the Jewellery Quarter and then us looking out for the clues supplied by the restaurant to lead us to the “Two Cats”!.

The restaurant is located at the end of a passageway through an inconspicuous door that lends it a Narniaesque air. Once inside the minimalist decor yields a cosy dining atmosphere with part of the prep station inside the restaurant so that dinners can see the theatre of the Latvian breads being finished before service.

The menu offers arguably stunning value at £42 for a seven course tasting menu. A modest increase on when I dined there towards the end of last year.

The Menu

Auksta Zupa – A beetroot and buttermilk gazpacho style soup with parsley, dill , cucumber, radish, and egg whites. Wow! What an opener! This is like the late great David Bowie opening a gig with Heroes! When you get this kind of artistic beauty cleaved with culinary heaven you just know that you’re in for a treat. Of course visual desire is only the first step in serving great food bit this tasted as good as it looked. The aromatics of the herbs lifting the beetroot to new heights.

image

Auksta Zupa

Raw Beef Noisette, Smoked Duck, Croutons, Pickled Turnip, Fermented Apple, Hazelnuts and Coal Oil.

This was another triumph and my first exposure to the hint of coal oil and use of oyster leaves in a salad. Like the Ronseal adds of the 80s, oyster leaves are a leaf that do exactly as they say and taste of those divine shellfish! That classic sublime and historic combo of beef and oysters is given a make over in this dish. Again wonderful presentation and an usual combination of flavours that really show off the tartare!

image

Raw beef noisette

Goat Cheese Pelmeni with Lovage Oil and Sweet Onion Broth.

This was a real comfort food dish. The tang of the goat’s cheese balanced out with sweetness of the broth and again lifted both visually and taste wise by the neat hit of Lovage!

image

Goat’s Cheese Pelmeni with Lovage Oil in Sweet Onion Broth

We were by now at the mid way point. Another first for me with a fish course of Arctic Char.

Arctic Char, Egg Yolk, Samphire, Shitake Mushrooms and Lumpish Roe

The presentation theme continued with a skilful use of ingredients with the Shitake complementing the strong flavour of the salmon like Char.

image

Arctic Char

Duck, Squash, Pickled Quince, Blackberries and Marinated Artichoke Heart

“Sorrel”

image

Sorrel

Served three ways, as a sorbet, curd and a granola. Best enjoyed rolled up like a fat cigar and eaten with a finger. A brilliant citrusy alternative to the classic palette cleansing lemon sorbet!

Honey Cake, poppy, Meadowsweet. Fennel, Pollen, Strawberries and Milk Ice Cream.

image

Honey Cake with Fennel Pollen

Finishing off with this unusual fusion of cake, ice cream and fruit the dish is elevated to another dimension by the aromatics of the fennel pollen. Again visually stunning and the perfect end to my virgin “New Baltic” experience.

Talking to the head chef, Nick Astley it’s fantastic to see his passion and enthusiasm for this style of cuisine. Starting from small beginnings as a pop-up and then finding his feet and a permanent home in the Jewellery Quarter. I love the fact that when they opened they were on such a tight budget that they were using old airline cutlery because they didn’t want to compromise on the quality of ingredients.

This attitude and determination puts Nick and the Two Cats Kitchen in my food heroes category. Firstly for focusing on the important things like ingredients and provenance. So many new start ups go over budget on the decor and kitchen spend and then end up cutting corners on the food. Nick has priorities set firmly in the right order.

Secondly, for daring to do something different. In the same way that I encourage friends and followers of this Blog to always try a new wine or grape variety, there’s a great pleasure in trying one of the hundreds of diverse cuisines that we have across our planet. It takes however a chef with some gumption and focus to deliver on that. Long may this continue.

Also a brief note on the wines. As I said earlier supplied by Connollys and a relatively limited but affordable list with more than enough to match all of the courses. I really loved the Austrian Zweigelt. Which worked really well especially with the duck.

Don’t forget if you want to dine on a Friday or Saturday you’ll definitely need a reservation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Jewel that is The Crown!

A few weeks ago after a random night out in Windsor that resulted in just a little too much wine consumption and a chance encounter with a young Frenchman and his Venezulean girlfriend we decided that a bracing walk was required to clear our heads.

We’ve been trying to walk the Thames Path in stages and have done most of the Putney to Oxford section with the exception of Tilehurst to Shiplake. So we headed off to Shiplake to park the car at Shiplake railway station before catching the train to Tilehurst to make the 11/12 mile walk back to Shiplake.

It was a beautiful sunny September day and we worked up quite an appetite en route  so when we finally made it back to Shiplake I thought we should reward ourselves with dinner out.

I searched to see if there were any Michelin Bib Gourmond restaurants nearby and there were two. One run by the ubiquitous Tom Kerridge in Marlow and called The Coach , the little sister of the Hand and Flowers, the other called The Crown in Burchetts Green, near Maidenhead and run by chef Simon Bonwick formerly of the renowned Black Boys Inn in Hurley.

The Crown looked more promising with an honesty that was not about celebrity and so we headed off to Burchett’s Green. On arrival I was relieved to know that there was a table available although I would recommend booking to avoid disappointment. We were greeted warmly by one of Simon’s sons Dean who was heading up front of house and shown to our table.

The former pub has been converted into a restaurant by Simon without the whiff of a pub about it! More like a cosy front room in a country house with the owner’s passion for painting adorning the walls for decoration. Yes he can paint as well as cook! what talent has Simon Bonwick.

The menu is a fairly simple affair with an excellent choice of 4 or so seasonally fresh starters, main courses and desserts.

One of the most impressive things about this place is the wine list. Modest in length, but with a pedigree that would have any sommelier salivating or indeed anyone who knows the Silex wines of the late Didier Dagueneau from the less exciting wines of Pouilly Fumé. One quirk of this place that I love is that the fine wines listed on the board behind the bar are all priced subject to negotiation. In other words there’s a price but its open to sensible offers.

Being towards the end of the month and with pay day being another week away I decided to go for something more modest, a white Côtes du Rhône. They’d opened a bottle for a customer to try at lunchtime that day and it wasn’t to their taste so I was offered it for the bargain price of £25!!

It was a heady blend of Viognier, White Grenache, Rousanne and Marsanne. With notes of apricot and apples and a long fat finish. As I glanced back at the menu the wild sea bass fillet caught my eye. Dean asked if I liked my sea bass thick and chunky. In my opinion it’s the only way to serve this fish but so often restaurants choose to serve the insipid cardboard like and thin farmed varieties.

Our choices ordered we settled down to our first course. A delicious homemade coarse pâté with fruit chutney. Served with home backed bread.

Coarse Pate with fruit chutney

Coarse Pate with fruit chutney

Next up was my favourite dish, the sea bass as Dean had said was a thick middle fillet from a wild line caught fish. Cooked to perfection. Moist and dense on the inside  but with a caramelised crunch on the crispy skin. Served with red and green pesto, a melange of fresh vegetables given extra colour by the unusual addition of beetroot and a wonderful silky smooth pomme purée.

Sea Bass with red and green pesto

Sea Bass with red and green pesto

We had both opted for the same starters and main courses. There’s nothing worse than your partner/spouse getting food envy when their choice is trumped by yours but at the dessert crossroads we took separate paths.

Gillian opting for the wonderfully rich and smooth Brillat Savarin cheesecake with a citrusy passion fruit sauce.

Brillat Savarin Cheesecake

Brillat Savarin Cheesecake

I for the Rocky Road Pie with homemade rum and raisin ice cream. As well as being indulgent and rich the thing that really set this off were the tiny droplets of concentrated “Tout Le Monde” raspberry purée that garnished the plate but which also complimented the rich chocolate of the Rocky Road.

Rocky Road Pie

Rocky Road Pie

After dinner and whilst enjoying coffee Simon, the chef came out to chat to us. It’s always great to meet the chef and understand a little more about their ethos and what their trying to achieve. Simon is a man with a vision and at last he’s in a  position to execute that plan. It’s a family affair with his wife helping out with the books and 2 eldest boys Dean and George at front of house. Don’t let that family thing fool you though. Dean cut his teeth working for the Roux brothers at the Waterside Inn and carries with him the professionalism you’d expect from someone whose learnt his craft from the masters.

Simon’s really passionate about ingredients and their provenance too. That’s one of the reasons why the restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays so he can spend the time sourcing fresh ingredients whether it be the sea bass that I had from Cornwall or some wild mushrooms or other seasonal ingredients.

Either way, if you live within a reasonable driving distance of this place I’d be booking your table for a Saturday night dinner pretty soon, I know that I will be!

Lavelli Bakery – Acton Central – More Than Just a Bakery!

The day job has really been getting in the way of the Blog so I’ve resolved to try to get at least one to two posts out a week. I was recently on Route to Hammersmith Hospital and had to changed at Acton Central to take the 70 bus! I’m so glad I did. Just outside the station is the Lavelli Bakery. An artisan bakers that also does a wicked line in French patisserie and an OK flat white!

Followers of this Blog will know that I’m becoming seduced by the wonderful array of independent coffee shops in London and whilst the place doesn’t quite cut it in the coffee department it more than makes up for it in other areas.

A fresh selection of French pastries is available to tempt you with calorie laden croissant filled with almonds and or chocolate – I picked up a chocolate, almond and marzipan croissant to take away and a really sticky and nutty florentine with a hint of ginger to have with my signature flat white.

The Florentine

The Florentine

With a selection of Artisan breads for sale and a great choice of breakfasts including omelettes and poached eggs its the perfect place to breakfast or brunch or break your journey on the Overground.

Outside seating area at Lavelli Bakery, Churchfields Road, Acton Central

Outside seating area at Lavelli Bakery, Churchfields Road, Acton Central

Inside you’ll find tasteful furnishings and an original brick fireplace. Outside there is decking and some tables and chairs so if you like your breakfast or your espresso al fresco then this is the place for you! You might just have to squeeze in a visit before we loose the last of the autumn sunshine.

A Corner of Italy in the New Forest!

I grew up in the market town of Ringwood in the New Forest. It has changed dramatically over the last 30 years and even more so in the last 14 years since I moved away. It’s now definitely a wealthier and more affluent town and has lost some of it rural charm, like the agricultural and livestock market.

Probably the most positive aspect of these changes is the demographic shift towards a population with a higher proportion of disposable income which has resulted in an explosion of restaurants, wine bars and cafes of varied international cuisine.

My parents still live there and I always look forward to returning to Ringwood to see what new delight awaits by way of a new restaurant or food/wine outlet. Today was no exception! We took lunch at Lovitaly in the Market Place.

On arrival we were greeted with a traditional warm Italian welcome from the manager, Alexandra, who hails from Cantú, in Lombardy province Italy. Lovitaly, is a delicatassen where you can also have a morning snack or a full blown three course meal, served in a slightly less formal atmosphere than a restaurant.They also have a private function room upstairs.

I love to understand the origins of words and language and so when I asked Alexandra to describe the style that she was aiming for with Lovitaly she said “eaterie” which sounded like a clumsy expression for a restaurant! Then I understood that in Italian the word “eaterie” is gastronoimia and that gastronomie is Italian for delicatessen! So I now feel more educated about the linguistic origins of this word as well as the delights that Lovitaly has to offer!

Naturally, Alexandra has a passion for all things Italian which comes through in the pride that she has in sourcing all the ingredients they use and making for example all the cakes and pastries in house.

We opted for an antipasti style mix of sharing platters, called tagliere in Italian. The literal translation into English is ‘Chopping Board” and  this is exactly how the mixed platters are served!

Tagliere platter of Italian cured meats and cheeses

Tagliere platter of Italian cured meats and cheeses

With the tagliere they serve some tiny bell peppers stuffed with a savoury fish mixture of tuna, anchovy and capers, this had an amazing texture and flavour and something that I have never tasted before. It’s also probably the sort of traditional partner to the tagliere that you would find in a little lakeside cafe on the shores of Lake Como which is where Alexandra hails from and a testament to her commitment to an honesty and authenticity in the food she serves.

We opted to accompany this with some tiny deep fried meatballs called polpette and a trio of bruschetta.

Polpette

Polpette


Trio of Bruschetta

Trio of Bruschetta

We rounded off our antipasti with coffees and some of their homemade amaretti biscuits which were dense and sweet and the perfect end to lunch.

The restaurant business is highly competitive and many entrepreneurs don’t make it beyond the first year, let’s hope that this little piece of Lombardy is around for a lot longer!

Real Patisserie – It’s the Real Thing!

I really envy the residents of Kemp Town, Brighton. The district has always had a hip and metrosexual feel about it but in the last few years it’s also become for me the epicentre of all that’s great in food and wine in Brighton.

It boasts a great butchers, an eclectic wine merchants, and a heavenly French styled bakery the Real Patisserie .

Everytime I’m working down in Brighton any thoughts of a healthy low carb lunch go out of the window as I drive down St. George’s Rd and I start to salivate at the thought of what delicious treats are in store for me that day.

I had resolved to Blog about this iconic gem 2 months ago before my last food and wine trip but events overtook me as they do. On that occasion I had a delicious salmon, leek, egg and tomato tart.

Salmon And Leek Tart

Salmon And Leek Tart

These are always served on little wooden board and there’s a small benched seating area where you can dine communal style.

Yesterday I was seduced by the courgette, mushroom, bacon and Brie Tart.

Courgette and Brie Tart

Courgette and Brie Tart

The pastry as always was rich and crisp, the filling goey but with an al dente bite from the courgette and a wonderful savoury flavour!

Apart from their selection of Tarts and Quiches, they offer a selection of Croque Monsieurs (my favourite is the mushroom and spinach with truffle oil) using their own French style baked bread, pizzas, sausage rolls and a vast range of patisserie and pastries.

Of note is their legendary chocolate and almond croissant that are unsurpassed by anything I have ever found in France and worth the 1 hour and 20 minute drive to Brighton on a weekend on their own!

The Bread Selection!

The Bread Selection!

Then there’s the selection of breads which range from multi grain, to rye and caraway and to chewy white, not forgetting their traditional sourdough and baguettes.

If that really inspires you to want to get creative in a home baking way, you can even join one of their monthly Sunday bread making courses, details available on the weblink above. They are great fun and good value at £60 per person including lunch.

The Real Patisserie, once bitten forever smitten!

Rainbow Beetroot and Goat’s Cheese Salad

Browsing through the pages of the August Edition of Observer Food Monthly I was inspired by Nigel Slaters ” Beetroot and Goat’s Cheese Salad”. The colour looked amazing, but it’s quite hard to find a good selection of different coloured beetroots in the greengrocers these days. So, on a trip out to Camden recently I popped into Parkway Greens greengrocers on Camden Parkway. This enterprising little store which fearlessly trades right opposite the giant Whole Foods Market has one of the best selections of fruit and vegetables that I have ever come across. I was able to find a trio of beets of the deep yellow, traditional deep magenta and a wonderful raspberry ripple colour variety.

Back in the kitchen I set about personalising the recipe to my taste by using a mild smooth and lemony Waitrose British Soft Goat’s Cheese.

The recipe will serve 4 as a starter or 2 as a main course.

beetroot 3 medium sized ( assorted colours)

olive oil 8 tbsp

Dijon mustard 4 tsp

lemon juice of half

honey 2 tsp

caperberries 6

goat’s cheese 200g soft and fresh

Method:

Peel the beets and then slice with a mandolin or a knife as thin as you can and place in a shallow dish.

Make up the marinade by combining the oil, lemon juice ,mustard and honey into a smooth emulsion. Pour over the beets and allow them to soften by leaving for at least an hour.

Slice the caperberries in half.

Assembly

Remove the beets from the marinade taking care not to disturb the emulsion too much to reduce transfer of the colour.

Arrange the slices of beetroot in any random order to show off the colours. Slice the goat’s cheese and divide up between the portions.

Whisk up the emulsion 

again and drizzle over the plates of beets and goats cheese.

Garnish with the caperberries and serve.

Rainbow Goat's Cheese and Beetroot Salad

Rainbow Goat’s Cheese and Beetroot Salad


Serve with a chilled Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or St. Bris! 

A Tapas Bar That’s Serious About Sherry!

Ambiente Tapas, Leeds is one of those rare types out of Tapas Bars that is as serious about what their serve you to drink as their food. It was also a completely unexpected experience!

I was there recently and only popped in for a glass of wine after work. I was up in Leeds and wanted to find somewhere that had Wifi,where I could relax, have a glass of wine and do a few emails! Ambiente fitted the bill, so I sat down at the bar to look at the wine list and was instantly overwhelmed by the comprehensive selection of sherries.

I need not have been overwhelmed, Mercedes, the extremely helpful girl tending the bar, asked me about the style and type of sherry I liked and then recommended an
Emilio Lustau Papirusa – Manzanilla. This was a clear, pale colour, dry and salty with the nose of a sea breeze and a long almond like finish.

Feeling a little peckish I ordered some Aperitivos to go with my Manzanilla: A mix of salted almonds, Hamas and kikos.

I partnered the Aperitivos with a cheeky side order of Datiles con Serano, 
Dates stuffed with almonds and wrapped in Serrano ham. The sweet and salty combination was sublime and delicious.

This cheeky little starter set me up nicely and I was now looking forward to indulging further into the food and sherry menus. For my next drink, I opted for the Antonio Barbadillo Principale Amontillado which had a sharp round nutty finish. I then asked Raoul, my waiter to recommend a few dishes that would suit this style of sherry.

He suggested the following dishes:

The Trio of Tapas

Lubina con hinojo
Pan fried sea bass with orange braised fennel and watercress. I loved the combination of the aniseed and orange flavours which really brought out the best in the sea bass.

Gambas al Ajillo
Fresh tiger prawns pan seared and coated in confit garlic and peppers. A different take on a classic tapas dish taken to a new level with the use of a garlic confit.

Judias verdes
Green beans, pan fried, in garlic, with sun dried tomatoes and pine nuts. Wonderful colour , texture and flavour with the intensity of the sun dried tomatoes off set by the sweetness of the beans.

Within three quarters of an hour of opening the place was heaving on a mid week night and it’s easy to see why! The service was attentive and instructive and all three waiting staff Mercedes, Raoul and Teresa really looked after me and helped me navigate both the extensive sherry list and also which dishes to partner my sherry choices.

For the finale I went for the strawberry cheesecake partnered with an Emilo Lustau Emilin Moscatel. This was sweet but with a dry after finish so not cloying and a good antidote to the sweetness of strawberry compote served with the cheesecake.

If you find yourselves in Leeds or York and you like your tapas authentic , then definitely give this place a go!

Absolute Abode

Absolute Abode is a home furnishings store and cafe on Coombe Lane in the bustling commuter area of Raynes Park in SW London, near the train station. On a sunny day you can enjoy an Al fresco breakfast or lunch on the pavement in continental style.

Al Fresco at Abode

Al Fresco at Abode

I opted for a homemade cheese and ham “toastie” made with emmnental and a really well cured ham. This was served with a side order of fatoush; one of a choice of three salads. Their fatoush is an aromatic mix of cucumber, red onion, red, yellow and green peppers, celery, tomato with chopped mint and parsley is delicious and an amazing colour too!

These guys are also serious about their coffee! They offer a choice of 2 blends, from Alchemy Coffee in South Wimbledon, Opus and Elixir.  Opus is 100%  Guatamalan with Elixir 75% Ethiopian and 25% Guatamalan. I went for my usual Flat Whiteb with the Elixir blend, which has notes of chocolate, hazelnut and redcurrant.

And if you’re feeling really decadent they do a huge range of homemade cakes and tray bakes!

The cake selection

The cake selection